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The vast majority of our customers are true enthusiasts, people for whom their car sometimes represents much more than a simple means of transport. The best way to express your gratitude towards your car and preserve it at the same time will always be good maintenance!

But still! Beyond the maintenance our little Japanese cars have some recurring problems. In our opinion, these weaknesses should be the priority for every owner who cares about the health of their cars and should be fixed before making any other improvement!

Gallery Gasket

Answers to all your questions related to the gallery gasket!

At what mileage should this repair be done?

Mileage is one of several factors that can affect/damage the gallery gasket. The only way to be sure of its condition is to do an oil pressure test.

What is the oil pressure test?

To perform a pressure test we install a mechanical dial to measure it. The oil must absolutely be at an operating temperature (90-100 degrees Celsius)

The minimum pressure at idle should not drop below 12psi and at 2000rpm it should be above 44psi

Pressure below these standards causes premature wear to the engine due to poor lubrication.

Do you replace the defective gasket with the same type of gasket? Is there an improved version?

Nissan revised their gallery gasket in 2013 so we use this version which is no longer problematic. In addition, we install new screws (allen) for better tightening coated with *lock tite* This way, the problem is solved permanently.

Which vehicle models have this problem?

In fact on all VQ engines 2012 and - inclusive therefore: G35, 350z, G37, 370z, FX35, FX37 etc.

*Please note that some 2013 models require vigilance, as the issue was fixed in mid-2013.

Are there any symptoms that might make me think my gallery gasket is damaged?

Although the best thing to do is the pressure test. There are some small clues for alert drivers;

*a slight knocking sound at idle before 1800 rpm

*a hesitation while still driving around 1800 rpm

*if the oil sensor detects low pressure (this is not always the case) the car will go into protection with the codes: P0021, P0011 & P0524

If one of these signs is present on your car, do the test as soon as possible!

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The Original Differential Bushings

Description of the problem

The original differential bushings or rings are of poor quality, over the years and/or with sudden acceleration they end up drying out or cracking. These 3 bushings contain oil so once cracked, the bushing will lose its rigidity and the oil will flow onto the differential. In some cases a dry knocking noise will be heard when engaging the clutch! Any owner who uses their car as little as possible will undoubtedly appreciate this improvement!

How to identify the problem on my vehicle

-Oil residue under the rear ring
-Crack in the ring often visible
-Clutch cracking or knocking is to be expected in advanced conditions.
-The rear axle bounces are caused by the original bushings, even if they are in good condition!

Our Solution

The relatively simple and inexpensive solution; change the original bushings for polyurethane bushings with higher resistance HYPERFLEX ENERGY. The differential must be removed from the vehicle to change the 3 bushings (2 on the differential itself and one in the rear cradle.)

Please note: The problem affects 350z, G35, 370z & G37 of all years

VQ35DE Hydraulic System

Over the years, the hydraulic system becomes contaminated. Moisture causes the flexible hose joints that connect the clutch cylinder to the rigid hydraulic line to oxidize. Iron particles (rust) then circulate in your system and will eventually cause it to malfunction.

**Improper hydraulic system operation causes clutch to wear out prematurely**

THE SOLUTION:
We advise you to change the entire system since as mentioned above it becomes contaminated. Of course change the oil (ideally for DOT 4). It is also important to leave a sufficient quantity of new oil to clean the rigid line that will remain on the car.

SYMPTOMS:
-Oil colored by rust in the tank.
-The clutch pedal returns slowly when hot.
-The pedal sticks to the floor when the clutch is used more than normal.
-In some cases, the pedal may offer more resistance.
-A slipping clutch.

This problem affects all 2003 to 2006 Manual Transmission G35/350z.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

The problem

Description

Nissan tried like many modern vehicle models to design an internal clutch cylinder. But in vain! The rubber does not resist the fluid used for the clutch. Over time the cylinder will either start to lose pressure or it will explode.

In the first case we change the cylinder and that's it, but in the second case, as a precaution we have to change the clutch because oil and the clutch disc lining do not mix well.

Symptoms

-The clutch system oil is blackened
-The clutch pedal is different and not consistent
-The clutch pedal sticks (when hot)
-The car no longer wants to go into gear with the engine running.

Solution

We have developed a system to relocate the cylinder outside the transmission. A process used by previous generations. Simple and robust, with this system you will be able to use your clutch with complete peace of mind.

The comments are unanimous once installed the system provides a much better feeling.

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